[ Alto Works ] HKS Super Power Flow

Turbo cars can benefit greatly with a well-designed aftermarket air intake, as the stock intake can be, on some cars, a bit restrictive and can limit the additional amount of air necessary for high boost pressures. A higher flow filter, directed to draw air from cooler areas of the engine bay or directly from the front, can help improve power at higher RPMs.

However, there can be several drawbacks with aftermarket intakes, even the best designed ones. Noise is increased, unshielded filters can draw in hot air near the exhaust manifold, and exposed filters can draw in more debris or potentially water. Also importantly, engine tuning can be negatively affected, as the proper balance of air, fuel, and timing is absolutely critical.

Simply dropping in a cone filter does not necessarily improve performance. Many unknowing car owners pull out the stock intake piping, drop in a cone filter, and call it “good.” Stock intakes are designed a certain way for a reason; sometimes extra piping and large, empty Helmholtz chambers are needed and the location of air snorkels are well engineered. Moreover, the Mass Air Flow sensor is placed a certain distance away from the intake throttle body to properly measure air, but sadly, I’ve seen under enough hoods to realize not everyone knows this.

In California and some states in America, the replacement intake must also be certified CARB legal, so options are limited. In Japan, virtually any reasonable intake can be installed and still pass Japanese inspection. Knowing the potential drawbacks of installing an aftermarket intake, I figure the potential benefits still outweigh them and so all my cars have aftermarket intakes installed at the moment, all from highly reputable manufacturers.

Upon inspecting the original intake and filter, I found that it seems actually quite well designed as it is. The intake is piped in from just behind the right headlight, potentially drawing in plenty of fresh air, though sadly the intake piping is slightly small in diameter and has too many sharp bends, potentially decreasing airflow speed and pressure.

The filter design itself seems actually quite good, as the pleated filter offers plenty of surface area to draw air in. I contemplated keeping the original air box and simply altering the intake snorkel to improve airflow. Thankfully the previous owner of this Alto was gracious enough to include an uninstalled HKS Super Power Flow as part of the package, so I neither needed to buy an aftermarket part, nor modify my existing intake.

HKS filters have been criticized in some circles for being ineffectual or even poorly designed, as they say it can allow too much air particulates to enter the intake. Some famous Japanese tuners swear by them, though, and I’ve talked to a few owners who have put many miles (or should I say, kilometers) with the intakes and claim they work well.

Well, why not drop it in and see how it goes?

The mounts it came with were OEM and did not appear to be the mounts HKS originally included, according to their manual, so I had to use some aluminum brackets for a proper fit to avoid hitting the hood or other components in the engine bay.

While there is likely not a huge benefit for a stock-tuned engine, it might open up an ounce of HP if the engine can breathe more. The replacement HKS Super Power Flow intake sound is lovely, the sound of rushing air clearly audible in the cabin, even with windows up. These sounds, combined with the woosh of the recirculating valve, make the car sound lively around 3000 - 6000 RPM.

Along with this installation, I used a super thin .3mm aluminum sheet bent and shaped to block off extra radiant heat from the engine, hopefully encouraging cooler air to be drawn in from around the right headlight. (Although it looks like cardboard from some angles, the brown is actually just an adhesive backing sheet I opted not to remove at this time.)

This heat shield modification is only temporary until I redesign it with a thicker and larger aluminum sheet, which is already in progress. I would also like to use the dummy right inlet to the side of the headlight to potentially force more air directly into the air filter. Let’s see how that goes in the future...

[ Alto Works ] Steering Wheel Modification

Simple modifications that improve the Human-Machine Interface are critical for driving pleasure. Basically, anything that you touch, sit in, and control need to be comfortable. The steering wheel (or “handle” in Japan) is a major component of this, particularly since it connects you and the all-important direction of the vehicle.

I have a particular affinity for Italian-made steering wheels, particularly Nardi over the arguably more common Momo, mostly because I like the feel of a slightly slimmer grip and the very classic look. I personally love the feel of slim-rimmed and small-diameter wheels, having fallen in love with them since I first put one on my Roadster. Nardi has made racing car parts since 1946 and with their heritage tied deeply with Ferrari, they certainly have the right prestige.

Momo and many other companies make good products, undoubtedly, but there is something just right with a Nardi Torino. I will admit, though, I recently switched to a Momo wheel on my NA because I think the wood Momo Indy look complements my classic Roadster (plus) theme. I also got the Momo wheel at a steal, so I couldn’t pass it up. Now I need a wood knob to match. Which looks better to you guys, the Nardi or Momo?

Not all is well with replacing a wheel, however. The main drawback is that, if the car was originally equipped with an airbag, you lose a very important safety aspect in a daily driver car. (Exploding Takata airbags notwithstanding.) If the steering wheel also has some utility buttons, such as those to operate the radio or cruise control, you will lose them, too. But perhaps most importantly, you also have the possibility of the passenger airbag not going off, too, putting a passenger at potential risk.

Of course, some of this can be mitigated. With proper safety gear like a harness, the risk of faceplanting in the steering wheel is lowered. (There are other associated risks with that, but let’s forego that extremely complicated discussion for now.) If you also install a proper airbag resistor, the airbag computer will believe the airbag is still installed, allowing the passenger and other airbags to continue to function properly and remove any airbag error lights in the gauge cluster. The airbag resistor, though, comes at a significant price cost or requires a bit of knowledge to make a DIY resistor. (You’ll need to know exactly the correct ohms resistance the airbag module uses.)

I’ve been using my classic 350mm Nardi wheel for awhile since my first Alto Works and it’s come full circle back on another Alto Works. It has definitely seen better days, but it’s still in good condition; no tears or rips in the high quality leather yet.

To install one, though, is simple, if not costly The steering hub needs to be adapted over to the 6-bolt pattern found on Momo and Nardi wheels, requiring a hub adapter. HKB Sports makes a wide range of inexpensive hub adapters, so finding one is easy. Luckily, this car was not originally equipped with an airbag, therefore it doesn’t necessitate a pricey airbag resistor. The HKB Sports hub was inexpensive at around 2000￥($18 USD) online, though the versions that are offered with airbag defeats are around 6000￥ ($55 USD) and up.

Turn your steering wheel and wheels as 12 o’clock straight as possible and begin. On most cars, to remove the old steering wheel cover or airbag, you have to undo some bolts on the rear of the center / horn. There was none I could find here. It turns out the trick to remove the front panel is to push in and up. I put a bit too much force and ended up bending the metal brackets holding the horn cover. Oh well.

Afterwards, it is a simple matter of undoing the tight nut attaching the wheel to the steering column, wiggling the wheel out, and putting in the new hub. Make sure the top arrow of the hub lines with the top dead center, otherwise, your turn signal cancellations may not work properly. This car had no airbag, so it’s a simple matter of connecting the horn and bolting it all in. For hub adapters with a airbag defeat resistor, you have to make sure they are carefully connected and taped or zip-tied snugly before the wheel is put in, offering enough slack and length for the wheel rotation.

Nice. Now I just need a 30mm hub adapter to get the steering wheel closer to me and I’ll be a happy driver. The feel of the right steering wheel makes the driving experience so much better. Now that the car is feeling better, we can make the car perform better...

[ Alto Works ] First “Modification” and Wheel Spacers

The car is all well and good so far. Not one day into the ownership of the car, I started making a laundry list of the variety of things must be changed. First was the removal of the extremely heavy and unnecessary audio system. There was an embarrassing tangle of wires and it turns out the rears were not even connected at all, as the positive lead was disconnected. The subwoofer box, as you might surmise, was pretty heavy. I am glad to be rid of it and the rear speakers. The front speakers and head unit will stay, as it has USB / iPhone connectivity so I can listen to my awesome audiobooks. (I’m so exciting that way.)

Here’s one modification that may draw some scorn from car purists: wheel spacers. Cheap, flimsy, aluminum “universal” 5mm spacers not center-bored to the hub, at that. I am well-aware of the potential issues of spacers, of which there are many. Adding width adds additional wear to the bearings and suspension components, changes the handling (for better or worse), and non-hubcentric spacers can potentially upset the car at high speed if they are off-center, creating potential vibrations. Moreover, simple sandwich spacers such as these reduce the amount of thread the lug nuts can tighten over, further reducing safety.

These are more appropriate wheel spacers, as they are specifically drilled for sets of specific patterns and are hubcentric to the diameter of the car. In this case, these are the perfect set for my Swift Sport, at 5x114.3 with a 60.1 center bore. For the Alto, I would need 4x100 with a 54.1 center bore.

At least, I did ensure that it was as centered as possible. What these spacers do is change the look of the wheels. They are now spaced out 5mm toward the outer edges, effectively changing the wheel offset from +45 to +40. I think they look a bit better, since they aren’t as far sunk into the fenders. In the end, knowing the drawbacks, I will leave them on. Keeping the nuts checked and tightened periodically will be a necessity. Further, as I don’t plan on tracking this car, nor drive it particularly long distances, the wear and the potential issue will be minimal, at best (or is it worst?).

I do have the option of going with larger 15mm or 20mm sandwich spacers with studs attached to stance out the car a lot more, which looks like it may also require a fairly aggressive fender roll. But for now, this spacing is adequate. I’d like to go with much wider wheels in the future, like a 13 x 5.5 inch wheel. I suppose 14 inch wheels would be fine too, but I think 55 series tires and 14 inch wheels don’t have enough rubber sidewall for my taste. The look of fat tires is definitely more appropriate to the style, in my opinion. This is an adequate temporary modification to keep my car looking fresh(er).

[ Alto Works ] Driving Impressions

Now that the maintenance is out of the way, we can focus on putting the HA11S Alto through some paces and I can give you a more honest review of how it exactly drives by taking it on its first 3-hour road trip to Osaka. First off, the car starts up quickly and smoothly without excessive cranking; good to know the fuel pump, battery, and starter are in good condition. The engine idles and shakes the cabin a bit, somewhat very typical with other unbalanced 3-cylinder engines of this age and mileage. The car accelerates smoothly, with little issues or hesitation between gear shifts.

Power delivery is acceptable, with the turbo spooling up notably around 2500 RPM and trailing off before 6000 RPM. This car only has 63 HP to pull its 670 kg (1477 lbs) listed weight, so it doesn’t pull fast or hard. But it’s not bad at all, actually. The sensation of speed is helped by the relatively low driving position and small roads. If left on “Drive,” the automatic transmission holds the gear until near the redline at around 7000 RPM when the throttle is hammered down. Of course, it chooses to upshift at that point or at the slightest release of the throttle, as to be expected for traditional torque converter boxes. Considering that speeds are legally limited to about 30 km/hr (19 MPH) local roads to 50 km/hr (31 MPH) city roads, this car drives fast enough to be “illegal” within a few seconds.

In comparison to the numerous other kei cars I have driven over the years, this car pulls as well as all of them. While the power-to-weight ratio is less than this Alto, my last HA12S Alto felt a bit peppier, likely due to the 5-speed manual transmission it had. But this is one of the lightest and quickest FWD kei cars that have a plethora of aftermarket support, so it’s perfect as a base car to modify. The small turbo has just enough boost to keep things interesting, but the engine note is harsh when thrashed and the exhaust note is boring. The unknown aftermarket blow-off valve is fun to hear, whooshing and releasing pressure when the throttle is let off. Whenever I get to replacing the exhaust, I’m sure that is when I’ll enjoy this whole experience more.

Unfortunately, the car has a terrible on-center feel, with quite a bit of steering play, quite typical of other kei cars of the 90s. I wish it was a bit crisper and sharper like my last Alto, but it’s far from terrible. The car has a decent feel in slow speed corners, so I took the car out to some curvy roads to see how the car behaves when pushed a bit more. Immediately, I can tell the car does communicate quite a bit through the steering wheel. There is a bit of honestly in an old car that bumps, rattles, and shakes in corners, as every physical sensation is relayed to the driver. Suspension is decently stiff for an older high-mileage car, so I wonder if it has been replaced at some year. It does not bounce, float, or dive on braking or accelerating. The grip, particularly on wet surfaces, is terrible due to the age and quality of the tires, so it has a tendency to understeer. However, the short wheelbase encourages throttle control to rotate the rear and it is quite easy to do so when provoked.

The non-ABS brakes are stiff, necessitating a bit of pressure to push the pedals. While it is better than soft brakes with no feel, as that might indicate air or leaks, hard brakes could indicate a faulty brake booster, though according to a quick preliminary pressure check, it is ok. Maybe it could be problematic rear drums or pistons. No pulsing, noises, or reverberations otherwise.

Speaking of rear drums, sadly the ie and Limited packages have those as standard. Only the RS/Z and R models had rear discs. Of course, it isn’t necessarily a bad thing, as drums are very low maintenance and more than adequate for most non-sport FWD cars.

So how does it feel sitting in the car? The Sports Limited bucket seats are respectable and do a decent job of holding my lower back in place, but I do wish the side and thigh bolstering were a bit more aggressive. The non-adjustable steering wheel has a terrible, truck-like angle, facing more upwards than I would like, considering my typical seating position. The cabin is typically noisy and lacks much sound deadening like many 90s economy cars, so wind and road noise impede in the cabin, compounded by the age and crumbling seals.

The lack of amenities is a charm for me: no automatic folding mirrors, no power mirrors, basic A/C and front speakers, and power windows. That’s all one really needs in a daily-driven project car. Heck, with the rear seat back folded, there is plenty of room for a set of spare tires and tools!

For my steely-eyed readers, you might be able to catch some modifications already in progress on the car. Next week, I'll start to showcase some of those changes.

[ Alto Works ] Checking it Out

Picking it up in Fukui City, we spent a good two hours driving the Alto Works to the center to handle the confusing paperwork, money then changed hands, and finally, the little kei car was mine. The first thing that I had to do with it, as with any second-hand car, is give it a nice run-through check and determine the condition of the car before we dive into modifications.

The body is in respectable shape. Minor dings and dents are expected, but no major scrapes or deep dents that I could spot easily. The front bumper has “parking lot” scrapes and rock chips and is missing some plastic rivets, sagging the front a bit. The rear bumper has cracking paint and is slightly warped. The door upper frames next to the roof have significant weathered paint damage, so it will probably need to be repainted. (I plan on just vinyl-covering it over later.) The huge side graphics are horrendous and are dried, cracking, and peeling. They definitely harken back the style of 1990s JDM sports cars. I’m hoping they won’t be too difficult to peel off with a heat gun and solvent.

A bit shabby and worse for wear interior-wise. The large steering wheel is airbag-free, so will be an easy change without the need of expensive or hard-to-make airbag resistors. The seats are fairly decent buckets with some bolstering and are tear-free.

Ugh, that transmission lever is hideous. I wonder if I can hide it under a leather boot?

The previous owners had a nice audio system installed: a newish Pioneer Carrozzeria DEH-P650 head unit, rear Pioneer TSX-100 speakers (there are none in the rear panels from the factory), and 2 huge 24 cm (9.4”) subwoofers and tweeters. They’ll be good for waking up the neighborhood. The only way I want to annoy my quiet town is with a fart-can or straight-dump exhaust, not with bumping music. Sorry, Nick, but they have to go, if not for at least freeing up boot space and removing wiring clutter. Adds +1 to lightness.

Here is a shot of the engine bay. So what can we spot here? Dirty, mostly all stock, but overall in fair condition. Some of these hoses will need to be replaced in the future, as they are cracking. There are no obvious signs of significant leakage around the head gasket. The only aftermarket part I can see besides the battery is the recirculating blow-off valve. This would explain why the car has a notable pressure release sound at even 2500 RPM, where my last Alto had little.

The stock all-season tires are in pretty terrible condition, not to mention the rotation is off on two of the wheels. The Taiwanese Nankang Ultra Sport NS-II tires, while not that old, seem to have quite a lot of sun damage and have some cracks, on top of low tread. I will not be able to safely drive on these for very long. Thankfully, the previous owner did include a set of good condition Korean Nexen Winguard winter tires on steel rims, which I might have to switch to using shortly.

The condition of the two sets of wheels are very good and only show minimal curbing. I’m guessing the previous owners took some decent care of the car judging from them. The alloy wheels are the optional Alto Works Limited-upsized and Enkei-made 14x4.5 +45 set. (The stock Alto Works wheels are similar-looking 13x4 +45s.) The steel wheels have no major identifiable markings, but appear to be a 13x4 size. They are thin wheels, basically hilariously the same as some sportbikes. I am definitely looking to lower the offset on them at least or replace them for at least 5” wheels in the future.

Definitely, I have to fix that hideous wheel gap.

Under the car, we can see generally a fair condition car with only minimal surface rust. For a 20 year old car, this is really good in Japan. There is a bit of a leak near the transmission, but it doesn’t appear dire. Other seals and rubber parts seem pretty good. Of course, there are no signs of aftermarket springs, exhaust, or otherwise. The previous owner mentioned a patched exhaust and I was worried it might be the header or catalytic converter. Thankfully, it’s near the resonator, cat-back, so it can be easily replaced with aftermarket when the time comes.

It still needs to be thoroughly cleaned, inside and out. Preliminary check, finished. I have a laundry list of things that need to be done to this car, all on a budget. Follow me along to see how it goes!